June 14^th, 2004

Of Poverty and Crimes in Ethiopia

By Fitsum Getachew

No one will have the courage to claim that there is no crime in Addis (otherwise it would be Eden!) and no one would have the guts to deny that some of such crime could have the tendency to target foreigners, (people who look more vulnerable than others such as nationals, local people etc). For obvious reasons, and specially, if visibly affluent or suggestive of vulnerability, fragility, giving the impression that one could get away with it fairly easily (young women, elder people, unaccompanied persons, children etc). I think to expect otherwise would be, at least naive. And it is natural that such scenario could repeat itself any where around the world, (leaving positive exceptions, easy optimism and hopes aside). Specially so in huge and ‘ungovernable’ metropolitan areas where human congestion is very high, poverty is abundant, moral is loose, cultural and traditional values mean almost nothing, and a specific subculture of violence, and criminality easily flourishes.

Scruples are not exactly something to worry about, in these areas. In most cases, there are bands of criminals, operating either organized in groups or even individually, and the struggle for existence itself dictates the ruthless rules of the game. People who have been born and brought up on the streets or ghettos of the metropolis,(without any sort of culture to be acquired, either in the family or at school, or even in the society, community at large, the main stream of society,) cannot be expected to be models of behaviour and moral. They are brought up in breeding grounds of violence, criminality and hate. The language they know is survival, at all costs! They need to manage their existence somehow and make ends meet. Often, these subjects could themselves be victims of alcoholism, drugs and other vices. They are in despair. And to maintain these, they would need immediate cash, at whatever cost. That is why the link between criminality and these needs becomes indissoluble. And to understand such phenomenon, one does not need to be a sociologist or any sort of academic. It is there for all to see, in our day to day lives and experiences.

Now, Addis Ababa may not be New York, Tokyo, Mexico City, Bombay or even Cairo, or Ethiopia is not the US, Japan, Mexico, India or Egypt. Nonetheless, it can’t help being one of the biggest cities (sprawling in vast land, and completely disorganized at that) in Africa, and certainly the biggest in East Africa. At the same time, however, Addis is also one of the poorest cities on earth. No wonder. Definitely a reflection of the reality of a country that is also among the poorest. All these facts cannot constitute a surprise to any one with a slight idea of geography and current affairs. Any one who would stop over in Addis, even for a day, would notice it. The stark ‘poverty reality’ in Addis is so evident that it hurts to see, even for Addis residents (for those relatively better off) and it is the thousands of residents who manage to survive at somehow better conditions that continue to give alms to the thousands others who are less so, and need help and stretch a hand every day.

Any one coming from another country would be impressed by the number of beggars on the streets of Addis, (some not disabled or crippled as one might expect, but people who apparently look ok but have problems of all sorts: unemployment, families to maintain, homelessness, children/relatives very sick etc. Under such harsh circumstances, one can say that the incidence of crimes in Addis, specially those involving violence and hate, is practically negligible.

As much as Addis or Ethiopia is a poor land of poor people, however, it is also a place that enjoys one of the most ancient and respected civilisations and cultures on earth. I don’t say this out of pure partisanship, (there is some of course!) but noting that it is an acknowledged and accepted fact by scholars. Ethiopians are, by and large, very religious and traditional people (don’t count the few ‘adulterated’ and ‘polluted’ by a certain minority ego-centred and victims of the subculture of certain Western realities, specially in urban areas! They have too much an abusive exposure to Western decadent circles and not the best features and qualities of the same!). Ethiopians’ fear and respect for God/Allah, their reverence for the elderly, their warm hospitality for guests, specially foreigners, have been subject of many books and travellers’ accounts, tourists and business people alike. I don’t want to dwell too much on such topic, but it is good to count it as a consistent reality of Ethiopian lifestyle. It is often said that such tradition has been continuously challenged and eroded during the past two regimes, (the military and now the current government).

In the name of ‘democracy’, ‘human rights’, ‘laissez faire’ etc, children are brought up with ‘strange’ values. They are encouraged to break with the past culture and mores, without presenting to them valid alternatives, adequate and firmly rooted values. Some people are really confused as to how to bring up their children. Even school teachers are uncertain which route to adopt. By any stretch of imagination, Ethiopians are not and cannot be Europeans or Americans, and you cannot bring them up inculcating the values of these peoples! It would be unnatural to bring up Ethiopian children speaking foreign languages, without even familiarizing them well with their local language, their mother tongue, their culture. I sometimes pity parents who insist that their children be fluent in some foreign language without giving due emphasis for their identity, their roots, their traditions. And at a certain time, these children find themselves stranded, lost with which culture or nationality to identify. They are neither English, French, American..., nor Ethiopian! And this often brings forth an identity crisis!

I am saying all this because I want to come to the underlying point of my piece, and that is the recent nasty incidents that were reported to have occurred to a young and attractive Canadian lady travelling in this country. I and my friends went through an article she submitted to ‘the Reporter’, a private paper, and the same piece reproduced by other newspapers, translated in Amharic. The translated versions of the papers focused on whatever point they preferred, thus attempting a certain interpretation, but in any case, the message of the writer is clearly passed.

Laura Besaillon has written a long piece narrating her bleak experience in Ethiopia. She also notes how she became fond of the country. Her piece is a detailed account of what happened when and where, and who did what to her. The base of her article is of course her being repeatedly robbed by thieves, and the kind of disappointing assistance she received from police and other authorities. She is bold enough to make various statements on Ethiopians, as a whole, and that is where many readers got indignant. Her judgements look contradictory and even confused. Among others, she says: “ I was told that the genteel smile adorning the faces of some is actually a veneer, and that poverty actually brings many Ethiopians to steal.” We don’t know who the authority on such subject could be. Any one can make any statement, be it motivated by pure prejudice, be it a result of quick impression or even a deliberate attack on the reputation of an entire people! Can one quote that as an ‘authority’ and base a whole mind set on it?

She goes on: “The traveller in Ethiopia is also wise to be aware that he/she will be required to have a steady flow of ‘birr’ notes handy. The tourist pays more than the local person.....In the absence of respect for the foreigner, security, and proper law enforcement, coupled with decent infrastructure and a positive international reputation, Ethiopia will be saddled with the negative images with which it is too often associated. ..” It is true almost any where in the world that the tourist is encouraged to spend more because he/she comes with the intention of enjoying themselves, and therefore ready to spend. Should this be underlined as a novelty? I don’t think this is characteristic of Ethiopians only. I remember in Venice, Italy, the fares for the same product in restaurants and certain shops were different depending on whether you were a local or a foreign tourist! It is all a question of ‘standards’. Then she becomes cautious and says, “Assumptions and generalisations in the human realm are usually best to avoid. ‘If they do not like it, they should go home because no one invited them here’, I have heard about foreigners when they complain about aspects of life in Ethiopia.” Again here, whoever said that statement cannot be representative of an Ethiopian mentality, nor policy of the government. Ethiopians are rather reputed for their hospitality, on the contrary! They respect guests and specially from a foreign land. If some one has said this, he/she should be considered an exception. Period.

Then she goes on: “No one will convince me that Ethiopia is a particularly unsafe or unpleasant country even in light of recent events. I will continue to try to adapt and adjust because most of the time I like the way I feel here. I am encouraged by the potential I see. I appreciate the presence in my life of new acquaintances and friends, many of whom have acquired since the dramatic events in Gondar” She seems to make it up for what she has been asserting. She seems to realize that generalization is ridiculous. It leads to prejudice and to error. It does not represent true reality. But nonetheless, she has used it at various junctures in her piece. Why? Is it the anger she was engulfed in? Is it the disappointment of the betrayal she encountered? No one Ethiopian in their right minds would be happy to see that something of this sort happened to a foreigner, specially to one who has good sentiments about their country. Therefore, I believe whatever nasty things happened to Laura is condemnable. I should add, it is something that we should all be ashamed of, but the tendency to make a sweeping generalization from a couple of incidents, however disgustful they might be is at least to be avoided. Giving such widespread publicity to a facet of Ethiopian life that is so insignificant that it would deserve all this talk is sad. Many Ethiopians have been hurt by certain statements made by the writer, and her attempt to redress them I think has not been all that effective. The negative remarks sound very loud and the rectification remain minute, as footnotes!

It is good that people make observations, sound, informed judgements about Ethiopian society and suggest corrections to be made. But such exercise is questionable when it is not based on sufficient, solid grounds. It is true that at times the police are reluctant to fulfill their duties promptly. It is true that certain Ethiopians could be nasty with foreigners, but believe me for all that I know, and for all that I gather from many corners, this is not a rule, and worthy of a generalized accusation! Ethiopians in the walks of life that this young lady has mentioned are advised to check with their records, because good or bad, she has raised a critical issue that puts at stake our country’s reputation. The veiled message that Ethiopians are thieves, dishonest and unscrupulous people, that they don’t care if a foreigner is assaulted and mugged etc ! is a dangerous statement.

There is no way of making such sweeping generalizations on an entire people, no means of accepting for good such conclusions, (based as it is on a few single incidents that happened under peculiar circumstances). Like I said earlier, no one would be ready to swear that Ethiopians are angels, or never commit crimes. But there are 70 million Ethiopians, and any qualification as unscrupulous devils would need more of a research and study on which to base the conclusion. Many an Ethiopian could be devious, sneaky, betraying friendship or otherwise, as would many a Canadian, American, Japanese or Nigerian for that matter. It is somehow human, I dare say.

I don’t think it would be so easy to draw definite conclusions on nations (unless one had some veiled aims or intentions) on millions of peoples of a plethora of varied cultures and religions, and assert ‘such people are so and so’! It looks at least so awkward! In an age where research (conducted so deeply and extensively) dictates any finding or statement, the young lady’s rash conclusions/statements really leave a lot to be desired and need to be rechecked.

To say the least, I think Laura owes every Ethiopian a fat excuse for her misguided statements, for whatever worth they might be. And to hear this from an educated Canadian becomes a stunning mystery for many of us. What we hope is that the lady wrote the piece in utter despair and not after sleeping over what consequences her article might entail. I don’t believe people who look forward to visiting Ethiopia will be disturbed by this piece, and change their plans. Nor do I think relations between Canadians and Ethiopians will be affected by such assertion.

The fact remains however, that people like me have been hurt by the very approach of the theme of the article. It wants to sound academic, touristic and incidental, but at the same time teems with contradictions and misleading conclusions. Ms. Besaillon, we are definitely very sorry for what happened to you. It is very unfortunate that such ugly incidents had to happen to you, a friend of Ethiopia. But I challenge you to show us if such incidents would not have happened anywhere on this earth, even in conditions of less social destitution and poverty than ours! I personally think that this would happen even to a man travelling alone in a country whose language one does not know, let alone to a fragile looking young lady! And I don’t find any thing so specific or special about Ethiopia, or Ethiopians. It is rather a normal criminal episode that can happen any where in the world. It is not because it is Ethiopia that this has happened. There are crimes and criminals every where in the world and not only in the poor countries. I don’t think there is a particular episode that makes criminality, theft a peculiar trait of Ethiopians or poor peoples in general.